published by : Eva Y. , the .
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Should we consider the success of dermaplaning as the end of a taboo or the beginning of a new injunction to femininity?
Dermaplaning: If the last decades have fueled aversion to female hair , the trend seems to be reversing, propelled in particular by feminist voices who intend to reclaim their bodies and put an end to centuries of diktats. Do not get carried away too much either: the biz of stalking hair still has a bright future ahead of it. The proof, the latest obsession of the moment in Generation Z is none other than dermaplaning, or shaving the female face.
The practice is not new, however, women have always had the habit of removing facial hair, whether it is baby hairs, down on the cheeks, legs, all of the eyebrows. or what we refuse to call ” mustache “, that is to say the hairs above the upper lip. The Wall Street Journal even mentions old Japanese engravings from the 16th century on which women can be seen shaving their faces with long, thin blades.
Queen Elizabeth I also used to remove all facial hair, starting with the top of her forehead (the beginning of her hair) and eyebrows. As for glamor icons Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, rumors have it that they shaved their face entirely in order to achieve a more even complexion and to refine their skin texture. If removing facial hair is indeed an old practice, dermaplaning popularized by beauty experts, dermatologists and influencers of the moment is a bit more subtle.
On TikTok and YouTube, beauty influencers with tens of thousands of followers, such as Jaclyn Hill, Jackie Aina and Chloe Morello, provide valuable advice in tutorials around this practice. Forget the shaving foam smeared on your face and daddy’s razor, the 2.0 shave is done very smoothly using a small blade that looks like a surgical scalpel. A more meticulous tool designed to remove all “unwanted hair” from the face.
A craze that Dr. Kim, who has seen many young patients land during the pandemic, attributes to social networks and tutorials. “It’s very satisfying to see layers and layers of skin peel away from your face,” he admits in the pages of The Wall Street Journal . Fun, OK, but is it really effective, especially as an exfoliating treatment, the other advantage this technique promises?
“Dermaplaning is actually a manual exfoliation technique that is used to scrape the top layers of the skin, brightening and allowing products to penetrate the skin more deeply,” explains Dr David Jack to Vogue UK . A treatment that would make the skin smoother and more luminous than can be done in a clinic by entrusting it to beauticians specially trained to handle with delicacy the surgical scalpel with sterilized blades, but also to determine if the skin is suitable to receive treatment.
If beauty experts strongly recommend the professional setting, which guarantees more safety and better results, the Gen-Z shows a real interest in the DIY version, at home, which requires that the famous small razors, oils and serums nourishing for the face to help the scalpel – which must be handled gently, positioned at an angle of 45 ° and used downwards, always in the direction of hair growth – to glide better on the skin.
But this operation is not without risk since poorly performed, it can cause infections, inflammation, redness or skin rashes. Another problem: regrowth. On this point, there are two schools: those which ensure that the hair does not grow back thicker and which see a real improvement in the quality of their skin and those which observe a darker and rougher regrowth.
Not to mention the natural barrier that the hairs are supposed to represent (we cannot repeat it enough) and which open the door to all kinds of bacteria, irritations, burns and other itches, once removed, as Paula Oliver, consultant nurse recalls. in dermatology, in the pages of Vogue UK .
The other question that can be asked concerns the stakes of such a practice. Beyond the aesthetic result (which in reality does not concern anyone and which is a matter of personal choice), are we not heading towards a new form of injunction to hair removal, at a time when we are trying to extricate itself from it? In a Guardian column , the journalist wonders: “Does a woman of the 21st century really have the time or the inclination to shave her entire face for a little softer skin, in a world that suppresses all trace of hair on the face of the fairer sex? “.
A question to which his colleague from the Wall Street Journal seems to have already answered, accusing the beauty industry of constantly marketing products designed to hide the fact that we are aging. In short, ” to make money by playing on our insecurities”. Because yes, all that obviously has a cost. Count on average between 50 and 100 euros for a treatment in a clinic. As for the routine at home, if it is obviously less expensive, you still have to pay between 20 and 50 euros to afford a good razor. In short, not given.